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Review: The Plough revives Pub culture with Britain’s Best Roast

In the hunt for prime British beef and potato perfection, the hidden gem of a picturesque Oxfordshire village has emerged with a leading contender.The Plough in Hanney is everything any U.K tourist would imagine when hearing the word ‘Pub’. With a thatched roof and Tudor-era beams made of solid oak, the roaring establishment has garnered widespread acclaim since the arrival of personable GM, Owain Jones, and talented chef, Luke Mayor, in 2022. Surging to a staggering star rating of 4.8 from 314 Google Reviews at time of writing, The Plough is the embodiment of a quintessentially British vibe (think Cameron Diaz and Jude Law in festive flick, ‘The Holiday’).

Much like Law and Diaz, the pairing of Jones and Mayor have become a potent dream team, blessed with a passion for supporting farmers, sourcing ingredients from the very best local spots, and from Owain’s family farm in Wales. “We want it to be a village pub more than anything,” says the latter. “So you can come in with muddy boots after a dog walk or celebrate a birthday here, or pop in to watch the Rugby. We don’t want there to be hushed tones, we like a bit of atmosphere and some fun!”

Fun is certainly a running theme forJones, whose larger-than-life persona is made for pub-life. Proud to receive anAcorn Award in 2016 where he was seen as one of the “Top 30 under 30” in the hospitality industry. With previous stints at The Hilton, and the Marriott, his partnership with Mayor (formerly chef at the “Two Rosette” rated ‘White Hart at Fyfield’) is bristling with a twist of ‘Modern British’, pairing pub classics such as burgers, rump steak, small plates, and their pièce de résistance, the Sunday Roast.

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Blessed with a fire-lit dining room, The Plough at Hanney delivers comfort, confidence and flavour in equal measure. This isn’t a gastro pub playing dress-up. It’s a lived-in Oxfordshire institution — all timber, flicker, and the low hum of people who know they’re about to eat well. The smell hits first. Tender lamb ready to pull seductively from the bone. By the time you’re shown to your table, and recommended towards a vintage bottle of Malbec, you already know what kind of afternoon this is going to be.

The Roast itself arrives with confidence. Thick slices of beef, properly rested, carrying a dark, savoury crust and a blushing, tender centre. This is meat cooked by people who understand restraint. The Yorkshire pudding stands tall and proud — crisp at the edges, soft where it counts — begging to be flooded with gravy. Deep, glossy, unapologetically generous, it pulls the plate together like it was always meant to be there. Roast potatoes come bronzed and crackling, giving way to fluffy centres, while the vegetables keep things honest, seasoned just enough to support rather than steal focus.

What elevates The Plough beyond just “a very good roast” is the atmosphere. Locals lean into the bar with pints, families stretch Sunday lunch into Sunday evening, and there’s an ease to the room that can’t be faked. You feel welcome, even if it’s your first visit.

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Service is warm, relaxed and switched on — the kind that knows when to check in and when to leave you alone with your plate and your pint. There’s no rush, no theatrics, just people who care about what they’re serving. The Plough at Hanney doesn’t chase trends or shout for attention. It knows exactly what it is, and it executes the task with gusto and aplomb. This is a Sunday roast with soul — comforting, generous and quietly confident.

A recent report estimated that 78% of Gen Z are foregoing pubs, in comparison to their Millennial peers at the same age. But as The Plough is so quick to demonstrate, via a burgeoning social calendar which includes regular pub quizzes, ‘Fat Tuesdays’, and their very own annual spectacular (aptly titled ‘Ploughfest‘), this is a hearty HQ of all things positive, pretentious-proof, frenetic, and fun.

If you’re looking to get Ploughed, this is the place to be.

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Follow The Plough on Instagram, and browse their menu(s) here.

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